By Hannah Yakobi
Photography by Nicole McLaren
As always, the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York was a whirlwind of glamour and sophistication. This season was unique because of the extent to which some designers experimented with fabrics and colours.
Ninety fashion shows later, we present to you our favourite collections, moments and trends.
If there is one designer who knows how to make a woman look and feel like a queen, it would be Zang Toi. The fall/winter Glamour at Gstaad collection by this talented designer – who has dressed the likes of Sharon Stone, Kirstie Alley, Melinda Gates and Eva Longoria – focuses on the luxury-colour triptych of black, red and ivory, occasionally punctuated by silver, fuchsia and orange accents. Trends explored include a spotlight on the 60s and a variety of gowns. This was a very well-received collection that was concluded by a standing ovation. Trends: Silks, organzas, fur trimmings, ruffles, one-shoulder pieces. FAJO‘s favourite piece: red, ruffled princess-style gown.
A native of Moscow, Leonovich has worked in many fashion capitals, including Paris and Rome. She now resides in New York and told FAJO that her fall/winter collection is “very minimalistic, but chic”, and very much inspired by her life in the Big Apple. Trends: multi-fabric combinations, silk, leather, corset dresses, Leonovich’s signature Beautiful Garbage concept, torn paper, pieces of aluminum, strands of cotton, fringes. FAJO‘s favourite piece: abstract print dress with draped string-style shoulder.
Prete & Bruno
This was the first Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show for the Italian design duo Salvatore Prete and Filippo Bruno. Undoubtedly, their debut was memorable and impressive. The designers said they were inspired by Hollywood icons Marlene Dietrich and Grace Kelly, and their collection was a blend of feminine elegance and evening noir. Black, gold and green were the top colour choices for this line. Trends: trenchcoats, wool, chiffon, velvet, high slits, boucle, feather trimmings. FAJO‘s favourite piece: black jumpsuit with paillettes.
Falguni & Shane Peacock
There were a lot of designers showcasing eveningwear at the fashion week, but what set Falguni & Shane Peacock’s runway collection apart was their immaculate choice of elements for the show: from tailoring and fabrics, to model choice and musical accompaniment – everything was in perfect co-ordination. This is a very talented design duo and their presentation came right off the heels of Madonna’s highly anticipated Superbowl XLVI half-time performance, where Falguni & Shane costumed the dancers. Trends: rockstar chic, glamour warrior theme, cutouts, prints, plunging necklines, extremely high slits, zipper accents. FAJO‘s favourite piece: the finale sheer jumpsuit with feather train and heavy embellishment.
Reem Acra’s show was reminiscent of Breakfast at Tiffany’s, with a 21st century touch. There were plenty of black dresses, evening gowns and leather suits. The focus was on accentuating the silhouette, with most skirts going just above the knee, and most dresses extending all the way to the floor. Trends: zig-zag-shaped sheer patterns, gloves (mini-gloves to elbow-high pieces), skinny belts, leather. FAJO‘s favourite piece: a black dress à la Breakfast at Tiffany’s.