Julia Eskins, Features editor
Matis by Lucian Matis
There was anticipatory buzz amongst the audience for Matis by Lucian Matis. After an exceedingly positive reception of his signature collection at the Royal York Hotel earlier that week, I too, was excited to see what the Toronto-based designer had in store. The collection was filled with affordable, yet luxurious basics that brought multi-coloured jersey frocks to a new level of elegance. From paintbrush stroke-patterned cocktail dresses to feminine collar details of both the bowtie and feather variety, Matis’ artistry was evident in each unique piece. I never thought I would ever use the words “wearable” and “feathers” in the same sentence, but once again, Matis truly redefined everyday wardrobe staples with lavish, yet ladylike, accents.

LINE Knitwear
After seeing LINE Knitwear’s newest collection, Rustic Remix, I’m looking forward to chicly bundling up in an oversized lush cardigan next fall. Designers John Muscat and Jennifer Wells departed from their usual fantasy-inspired presentations to show an edgier collection filled with cleanly cinched silhouettes and neatly draped ensembles; perfect for the girl on-the-go. I immediately adored the leather and fur fingerless gloves and geometric patterned sweaters that combined warm brown and plum hues.

Rad by Rad Hourani
On the final night, RAD by Rad Hourani took androgyny to the extreme with a unisex collection that seamlessly merged earthy green tones with futuristic utilitarian details. Models stormed the runway in nude make-up, and structured leather reversible outerwear, accessorized with boxy backpacks. Ironically, the show marked the Montréal native’s Canadian debut, though he has previously gained international recognition at New York and Paris fashion weeks. While speaking with Hourani after the show, we discussed what sparked his choice to show in Toronto. “It made sense to come back to Canada for the fifth anniversary of my line,” he said. “The clothes are made in Canada and I wanted to say thank you, while celebrating the love and excitement behind the collection.”

Katia Ostapets, Reporter
Martin Lim
This season Martin Lim’s designers Danielle Martin and Pao Lim experimented with the use of long rectangular strips of silk, applied to skirts and tops in a way that made them look romantic yet still architectural. The line’s signature black stitching around every appliqué piece was present in almost every garment. Black and white leather made an appearance, as well as pops of mauve, coral, spearmint and fuchsia. The simple sheath dresses, pencil skirts with multiple slits and metallic jackets made the collection feel like the actual wardrobe of a trendy, urban young professional. I particularly loved the three finale dresses that looked like they were simply draped on the models without the help of any fastening.

Joe Fresh
Joe Fresh never fails to excite. The collection was as always full of colour: mustard, lime, orange, teal, forest green and shades of red. Perhaps as a nod to the upcoming London Olympics, Joe Mimran joined his fellow designers in showcasing skirts and dresses in houndstooth. Skirts were either in elegant 1960s shapes or shorter and full, simple jumpers were made quirky with the addition of cute designs on the front, and corduroy made a comeback. The collection also kept in mind the Canadian chill, with a prominent use of fur in different colours, and matching knitted hats and scarves. My favourite moment was when the models were leaving the catwalk and all you could see was the sea of orange soles at the bottom of their shoes. Move over, Louboutin!

Rudsak
I was also impressed by how interesting an all-outerwear collection could be, and Rudsak showed me the way it can be done to perfection. The line had a distinct Queen-West-meets-NYC vibe: a mostly black pairing of silk tops, leather jackets, leggings, metallic chokers and high platform shoes. Women’s jackets were either biker-like and fitted with lots of stitching, or down-filled with fur embellishments of every kind. The men’s jackets appeared warmer and more utilitarian. Some looks had a chic Russian KGB feel with military jacket accents and black fur earmuffs.

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