She is the Princess of Punk, undoubtedly the Queen of Colour and one of the most influential fashion designers of all time. Dame Zandra Rhodes launched her eponymous fashion brand more than five decades ago and is renowned for her bold prints and vibrant technicolour designs. Her clients over the years have included Princess Diana, Freddie Mercury, Bianca Jagger, Debbie Harry and Divine.

With her own distinctive look and standout hairstyle, dyed hot pink since the 1980s, she is the embodiment of her label’s designs – larger than life and impossible to ignore. Rhodes is also the founder of London’s Fashion and Textile Museum, which she founded in the early 2000s to promote the British contemporary fashion industries. To this day the museum showcases the work of top talent, such as Anna Sui, Kaffe Fassett and Andy Warhol.

Rhodes continues to work full-time out of her Bermondsey studio in London, U.K. We caught up with her during a recent trip to Toronto, when she was collaborating with John Fluevog and participating in his latest annual festival. Here is what we talked about.

HANNAH YAKOBI: So, I was reading a lot about you.

ZANDRA RHODES: Oh dear. (both laugh)

HANNAH YAKOBI: People have been calling you the Princess of Punk for decades, and they still do.

ZANDRA RHODES: That started in 1977-78. But I started my brand in 1969. And then, in fact, the thing that’s so fabulous is here are these actual prints. (points to her clothes) A really historical print from even before I started my brand when I was doing things with Lady Penelope. And the cartoon, where that was her car. And then these are neon flowers from when I watched the TV, saw Las Vegas and drew little flowers. It’s incredible living with all the history and it coming around again.

HANNAH YAKOBI: That’s amazing. I was going to ask you about the prints.

ZANDRA RHODES: I carry a sketchbook and today I just drew what I saw from my window. I have different prints of things that I have seen and drawn. And these were flowers as if they were done in neon tubing. (points to her sneakers) And so it’s about bringing to life the old designs that I did. It’s wonderful. A Fluevog adventure!

HANNAH YAKOBI: This is your second collaboration with Fluevog. What originally drew you to collaborating?

ZANDRA RHODES: I had an agent who got in touch with them. I was thrilled. And then we were in Vancouver last year and back here in Toronto, which is fabulous, because I used to come here years ago. I also did Romeo and Juliet on Ice that got an Emmy and that was done in the studios here in the city. Many years ago. Too many.

I love being part [of the Festival], together with Anna Sui, who’s collected my work for years. It’s lovely working with John. He comes up with things that don’t look like anyone else’s. And that’s what’s so special, you know. These are wonderful. (points to the sneakers) They’re like cushion. They look gorgeous. It’s quite fabulous.

HANNAH YAKOBI: So, you obviously love pink.

ZANDRA RHODES: I like pink! Green’s pretty good too. Green wins today.

HANNAH YAKOBI: What attracts you to pink? What’s your favourite thing about it?

ZANDRA RHODES: Well, I suppose people always think of me as pink because my hair’s dyed pink. The reason it’s dyed pink is because (leans over and says quietly) it’s very easy. Years ago, when I first started, I dyed it green and it looked like my hair was old straw. I’ve tried bits and pieces, purple and things, but it didn’t look right. And pink is so easy. I’d much rather that than going gray.

HANNAH YAKOBI: You love colour in general.

ZANDRA RHODES: I love colour. I don’t understand why people don’t wear more colour because black shows the dirt just as easily as colour. So, I don’t know why they don’t find it easy. And also: it’s very, very happy. Don’t you feel happy when you wear that pink dress and those stunning earrings? (points) Do you know what I mean? It’s so nice, and you cheer other people up, you give other people a smile.

HANNAH YAKOBI: Speaking of stunning things: in one of your other interviews, you’ve said that you have been hoarding a lot of beautiful items over the years?

ZANDRA RHODES: Oh yes, I’ve been hoarding all my clothes. I’ve always kept my favourites from every collection. Like my great friend David Sassoon, who made more dresses for Princess Diana than anyone else, never saved anything. Whereas I always thought, ‘Oh, that’s a good dress, I’ll put that away.’ Well, when COVID came, I decided that I had to sort all this out. At one point, I’m not going to be here and then it’s got to go somewhere. And I realized I had over 6,000 garments. So, we’ve been getting them out, photographing them, putting the style numbers and sort of getting it all sorted. I’m also working closely with Kerry Taylor, who runs the world’s best auction house. So, some of it will be auctioned, but some will be going to different museums across the world.

HANNAH YAKOBI: We’ve talked a lot about colour, but it’s so common in the fashion industry to wear all black. How do you feel about that?

ZANDRA RHODES: I don’t know. I’ve be waiting and thinking maybe times would change. And suddenly when I’m on the subway in London, I’m usually the only one wearing colour. Today, I’m wearing more black than usual, because I wanted to emphasize the sneakers.

HANNAH YAKOBI: You’re also the founder of the Fashion and Textile Museum. What do you think is really important to think about when you’re selecting fabrics or textiles for clothing? You’ve been doing it for so many years. What attracts you or captures your attention?

ZANDRA RHODES: I’m a textile designer that couldn’t sell my work in the late ’60s because everyone said it was too extreme. So, I made garments in order to sell. I got someone to show me how to make patterns and I started to make garments that were totally influenced by the print that was in them. And so really, I made my name as a dress designer with printed textiles. But now I’m lucky enough that people come to me to create some prints that they can use for their things. For example, I did a range for IKEA and I’ve done this range for John.

HANNAH YAKOBI: Interesting. When you moved to the U.S. years ago, you said that the U.K. was not the right place for you and you wanted to go to the U.S. because you could experiment and try new things. What do you think of the U.K. these days? Do you think it’s ready for more fun?

ZANDRA RHODES: Well, to me the U.K. is a sad little island that got led astray to separate from Europe. It was so stupid to separate from Europe. So, I don’t know how we correct that. Europe probably doesn’t want us back for at least 10 years. We will have to wait and see.

I think that anyone young who wants to go forward will have to either go and live in Europe or they’ll go to America. Because the gates have been closed as far as selling. I mean, I’m lucky I made my name in America before the U.K. I used to come to Canada for Creeds and I’ve also been done appearances with Holt Renfrew. I mean, stores have less and less power. But I was lucky enough to be part of that whole thing.

HANNAH YAKOBI: What do you think about Canadian fashion? Obviously, you’re collaborating with John, but what are your thoughts in general about the industry here?

ZANDRA RHODES: I like the fact that Canada dares to do things. I mean, to me, there’s no one like John. I think he’s sort of produced a cult around him. And in fact, I first heard about his things in New York when I bought some, before I even knew John. So, it’s been quite wonderful being involved and doing a collection.

HANNAH YAKOBI: Do you have any advice to someone who’s just starting in the fashion industry?

ZANDRA RHODES: Promote yourself as best you can. Don’t give up and keep at it, and something will happen.

I think Canada is wonderful in that people dare to do things. If you think of how many singers have started off in this country before they went to America. I think Canada possesses the whole spirit of its own. And the more it does that, the better.