Yes, Chef: the incredible journey of Akira Back

August 25, 2024

When you think of Chef Akira Back, you don’t just picture world-class cuisine or culinary accolades — you think of a man with a huge heart. He’s a chef who genuinely cares about his employees and leads with a rare humility that makes his success all the more inspiring. We recently had the pleasure of sitting down with him at his namesake restaurant, Akira Back, nestled in the heart of downtown Toronto at the Bisha Hotel

Chef Akira treated us to some incredible dishes that are the latest additions to his already incredible menu. Below are some of the highlights that include Nazo 9 Chef’s Signature Mystery Box, Chef’s signature Tuna & Mushroom Pizza, Galbi Lamb Chops with cherry tomato concasse and shiso chimichurri, Tuna Tataki and A5 Wagyu Tataki. 

One thing that stood out during our chat was the deep inspiration Akira draws from his mother, with many of his dishes almost acting as edible tributes to her love and influence, each plate a beautiful work of art. Her favourite? The tuna pizza. And after trying it ourselves, we have to say — it’s our new favourite, too.

When asked how he created this masterpiece, he explained, “In America, kitchens are often stocked with tortillas, and many of the staff are Mexican. I had a tuna aioli on hand and thought, ‘This could be something special!’ And that’s how the idea was born.” 

To add a personal touch, he incorporated his mother’s artwork into the presentation of the dish. In fact, every plate at his restaurants features a unique painting by his mother, making each one distinct. Different locations showcase different pieces of her art, adding a special, personal touch to the dining experience.

Chef Akira also talked a lot about his daughter. He said she dreams of following in his culinary footsteps, and he envisions a future where they travel together, tasting and creating new dishes, with his mother continuing to design the plates. 

As we broke bread with Chef Akira, we dove deep into his history and uncovered the creative process behind the masterpieces this Michelin-star chef has created — and continues to create.

 

SARA AFSHAR: You are a man of many talents, who used to be a professional snowboarder. How did you get into that? And why did you want to become a chef? 

CHEF AKIRA BACK: I’ll tell you the journey of my life. 

I played baseball when I was little and was supposed to be a baseball player; that’s what I trained for. I was very, very good at it. [When we lived in Korea], my father made me go to school and ride a bicycle for one and half hours everyday, uphill. [Back then], my legs were three times bigger than what they are now. But, one day, my father decided to move to Aspen, Colorado. I had no idea what Colorado or Aspen were: I had only heard of L.A. and New York. 

We moved to Aspen when I was around 13. Unfortunately, I didn’t study like my sister, so I focused on sports. I couldn’t even say ‘hi’ or ‘how are you doing’ [in English back then]. When I went to school, I had to learn fast to adapt. I felt that if I can learn English fast, then I’d be able to make friends.

A lot of guys around me had blue eyes and blonde hair, nose piercings, mohawks. And they were always snowboarding and skating. So I thought, ‘Ok, let me try these two sports.’ I just wanted to be cool and make friends. 

Then later on, people would ask, ‘So why did you quit and become a chef?’ I never specifically wanted to be a chef, but I wanted to do something different. [And I had met a chef who] was the coolest guy I knew. Back then, I couldn’t even eat raw fish. My father was so upset when I said I wanted to cook, he hated cooking. 

What were the first things you made?

Well, actually, I washed dishes. (laughs) For 6 months! 

Do you know how cold Aspen water is? You get blisters. But my hands are still the sexiest on the market as a chef. (laughs) 

 

How did you feel about being awarded a Michelin star?

If you get recognized, you feel absolutely great! But if you don’t get recognized, I think it’s fine as well. 

To me, recognition means more pressure. I have to do better and better. But if I didn’t get recognized, I would be doing the exact same thing. 

My mom and my father loved it, and they are now pressuring me to get recognized in London. My Michelin Korea restaurant has moved to London: we are opening there on September 3. It’s a lot of pressure!

What are the challenges you face as a chef?

Challenges are always the people. You [basically] have to make a baseball team, and be the coach. I’m proud to say that [many of my chefs] are still here [many years later]. 

They are often cooking 24/7. I don’t cook 24/7 anymore. Instead, [I often think about how am I] going to control and balance everything. Some people you love disappear or leave, and you have no idea why. I used to really care when someone would say they were leaving, but now I don’t. It happens. That’s life. Although, I do love it when people tell me the truth about why they are leaving. 

How many restaurants do you currently have?

26! We are up 13 restaurants in less than two years. I’m opening a handroll concept next, then we are opening Dosa in September, and another location in October in San Francisco. By the end of this year, we will open in Rome. We have so much going on, it’s been awesome. 

How does it feel to see your name on restaurants?

It’s a great feeling, I’m definitely happy. I feel good and awesome. Proud.

What does success mean to you?

It’s the definition of how everybody thinks. For me, success is to accomplish my dream. Everybody has a dream; if they accomplish it, that is success. And it does not have to be big.

What do you love about Toronto, and what do you do when you’re here?

I go to China Town a lot. It is so multicultural, so cool. 

I do a lot of things when I’m here. And I always feel welcome. 

 

Are there any restaurants you like here?

Every restaurant in Toronto is great, but I do go a lot to China Town. I don’t have a favourite cuisine. I love fish, meat, veggies, it all depends on my mood. Simple.

How do you pick your chefs?

Luckily, I don’t really pick. [I’ve been] working together [with many of them] for a long time. So, they know exactly what I like and what I don’t like. This is why I like opening more locations. [That way], we have more talent. [And many of my chefs] move from one location to another, [and get promoted].  

You’ve been asked to prepare and cook for celebrities and public figures. How do you prepare a meal for somebody very high-profile?

It’s easy: you just ask them if they have any allergies! And I make them the same food that I make for everyone else. (laughs)  

If they want something very different, then, yes of course, [I will make something else]. And I like to make the tuna and mushroom pizza!

Who are you most nervous to cook for?

My mom and dad!

Can you give any advice to aspiring chefs out there?

Yes — don’t do it! (laughs)

But yes, of course, I want to scare them first. It’s a physically challenging job. You need to be standing for hours, you have no life, you have to be always prepared. 

 

Are there any chefs that you look up to?

So many chefs and cooks. 

Honestly though, I look up to the dishwasher. It’s the [toughest] job, but the guy always has the biggest smile. 

Everybody is different, but I look at everyone the same. Some customers can inspire me with food, I listen to them as some people have great points. Sometimes, I’m like: ‘Wow, I haven’t even thought about that.’

Personally, I also get inspired by traveling, trying different flavours, experiencing different traditions, and making my own journey through cooking. 

Photos courtesy of Chef Akira, Mustafa Sheikh and Sara Afshar.

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Story by Sara Afshar

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