Editor’s picks: World MasterCard Fashion Week, fall/winter 2015

March 24, 2015

Last year, I had a long and very enjoyable discussion with our Senior Photographer Tara West. We were sitting at the tents in New York, getting ready for another show. And, somehow, we got onto the topic of “angles” in the context of runway shows.

During our chat, Tara and I discovered that even though we went to the same shows together, she often didn’t notice specific garment details from her viewpoint from the photography pit (facing models), while I missed other things from my viewpoint in the audience (seeing things from the side).

We started comparing photos and discussing various collections; in the end, Tara decided to shoot the remaining shows from various angles, to truly capture the flow of the fabric, as opposed to just shooting head on. The results were great.

This season, I decided to conduct a little experiment in Toronto and reverse the perspective: instead of experimenting with angles in the pit, we will experiment with angles from the front row.

Stay tuned as we add images daily for the rest of the week, with highlights from the key shows this season.

Mikhael Kale

One of Toronto’s favourites, Kale opened this WMCFW season with 20 looks that featured his signature cutouts and extensive bead detailing. The collection was visibly divided into vibrant pieces that contrasted against subdued neutral tones.

Key highlights included leather shift dresses and moto jackets.

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Farley Chatto

Drawing inspiration from Tzar Nicholas II, this runway show was strongly influenced by Russian heritage, luxury outerwear and statement pieces, paired with Swarovski jewelry.

Presenting, once again, a collection for both men and women, Chatto’s key looks included men’s grey fox bomber jacket, women’s sable directional car coat, as well as white mink and hand-beaded diagonal-banded wedding gown. Almost all fur pieces at the show were NAFA fur.

Receiving exceptionally loud applause at the end, this was one of the biggest runway highlights of the week!

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Mackage

The fall/winter 2015 collection was inspired by the arctic landscapes and icy settings. Highly structural, minimalistic and strongly focused on neutral colour spectrum, designers Elisa Dahan and Eran Elfassy experimented with leather, wool and faux fur.

All pieces were styled with handbags for the same season, completing the outfit. Key looks included moto and bomber jackets, long coats, hooded capes and fur parkas.

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Vawk

Staying true to his signature pieces, Sunny Fong focused on floor-hugging gowns, with deep V-necks. A couple of other highlights included a jump suit with a plunging neckline, and a red dress with oversized sleeves.

Well-known for his luxury clothing, Fong has been consistently delivering solid collections for many years, and it was nice to see him return to the runway after skipping the shows last season!

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David Dixon

Celebrating his 20th anniversary this year and his 40th collection, this was a very special show for David Dixon. As he has previously told FAJO, Dixon’s show was inspired by Joan of Arc and this influence was very visible in his designs. Key fabric choices were leather and mesh, mixed with Tibetan lamb, silk wool and cashmere. Out of the 22 looks, most were ankle-length dresses, with some featuring corseted tops.

Dixon also worked with Rita Tesolin who provided intricate jewelry that perfectly complemented the clothing; her ring bracelets were a particular attraction. Dixon received a standing ovation at the end of his show, which was attended by many celebrities, including Toronto’s Mayor John Tory.

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Triarchy

The very cool sibling trio (Adam, Ania and Mark Taubenfligel) have returned to Toronto this season for another fun runway show.

Seen on the catwalk were three-quarter dark jeans, ripped-knee light-coloured denim and plenty of fun colour patching. Skinny jeans also made a strong comeback for fall/winter 2015.

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Sid Neigum

Presenting as the latest winner of the Mercedes-Benz StartUp, Neigum showcased his most feminine collection to-date. With his signature futuristic shapes still strongly present, the designer has found a perfect balance for creative dressmaking that is still very wearable.

FAJO has been following Neigum for years, and first featured him in 2011. At the time, Neigum was based between New York and Toronto, and had only done two collections. Today and many awards later, his work can be found in major stores, such as the Hudson’s Bay’s The Room and Jonathan + Olivia (both in Toronto).

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By Hannah Yakobi

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