With fashion week season in full swing, the world’s eyes were on the New York runways of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week for spring/summer 2015. Running from Sept. 4 to Sept. 11, the city saw its fair share of fashion followers photographed in their best normcore ensembles, but inside, galvanized glamour ruled the runway. From Carolina Herrera’s futuristic florals to Badgley Mischka’s rainbow eyebrows, fashion showmanship was at its best, and FAJO was there to capture it all.
Some like it hot, and others like it bejewelled. At Jenny Packham’s show, we got a bit of both. Inspired by Marilyn Monroe, the collection delivered body-con dresses and floor-length skirts that played with the romantic silhouettes of the ’60s and ’50s. Strategically placed floral appliqués, sparkling embroidery, beading and other embellishments were in full force, making for a glitzy affair. The British designer, whose following includes Kate Middleton and Angelina Jolie, certainly had Red Carpet glam in mind this season. While the collection was a departure from the inherently modern collections that typically show in New York, we saw a few pieces fit for royalty.
One of the key trends to have emerged from the spring/summer 2015 runway is the minimalist take on sporty chic. And which label comes to mind when you think of elegant athletic gear with some on-point throwbacks to the ’70s and ’90s? None other than Lacoste. This season, the collection’s yachting theme was apparent in the brand’s lineup of American classics made fresh again with angular cuts that mirrored boating sails. The colour palette was mostly made up of crisp white and shades of blue, though some bold colours like plum were introduced. Sports jersey dresses with geometric prints, boxy jackets and knee-length coats made for a practical, yet refined collection — which is exactly the kind of effortless cool we expect from Lacoste.
You know you’re in for something unusual when a runway show begins with a dance number and runs twice as long as a typical presentation at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. This was the case of Malan Breton’s spring/summer 2015 collection, titled “A Journey to Taiwan: The Heart of Asia.” Traditional Taiwanese elements collided with Breton’s eccentric take on the silk suit. With a mix of patterns in bold fuchsia, purple and yellow, the show missed the mark on cohesiveness and taste level. But seeing everything from corsets and gowns to resort wear and trench coats, we have to applaud emerging talent Malan Breton on his ambitions.
Celebrating the label’s 25th anniversary, the dynamic design duo that is Badgley Mischka did not miss a beat while presenting a sophisticated collection to mark the milestone. From show-stopping evening wear to modern ensembles, this season was all about flowing maxis, deep V-necklines, ladylike florals, crop tops and white paired with metallic tweed. For a playful touch, models were styled with rainbow eyebrows and pastel-coloured streaks in their hair. To top it all off, model Naomi Campbell joined the designers on stage to celebrate another successful season.
This season, Herrera took a more experimental approach to her spring collection, and it paid off. The result was ready-to-wear that struck a balance between feminine and artistic, restrained yet imaginative. Most notably, Herrera gave floral a futuristic update through the use of high-tech fabrics, geometric shapes and prints made from pixelated renderings of blossoms. Rather than taking it to a kitschy level, Herrera let her sense of shape and colour take centre stage with soft yellow and bright coral providing the perfect contrast to pure white. If you were planning on attending a glamorous garden party next spring (or sometime in the near future) one of Herrera’s frocks would fit the bill.
Fusing vintage and contemporary inspirations, Dennis Basso showcased a range of light and playful looks perfect for an elegant soirée on the Mediterranean coast. Utilizing a soft colour palette of cream, eggshell, peach and light grey, the collection had an overall feeling of sophisticated delicacy. While the fur vests, ’60s silhouettes and chiffon gowns took some ensembles to a mature level, modern elements like the metallic accents, pockets and short rompers saved the collection from dowdy distress. All in all, Dennis Basso perfectly captured the essence of the modern girl who loves to play dress-up in her finest vintage.
With all the loose-fitting garments that took fashion week by storm this season, it’s hard to believe that bandage dresses would have a place on the runway. But this season, Hervé Léger by Max Azria gave body-con apparel a refined update with peplums, mesh cut-outs and clever accoutrements to compliment the body. Using the onna-bugeisha (female samurai) as an inspiration, the collection was full of thick waist-cinching belts, angular cuts and bold, colourful prints. Never one to skimp on the sex appeal, mini shorts and intricately beaded crop tops were abound. Without compromising his signature way of flattering the feminine shape, Azria ushered in a fresh version of the urban warrior woman.