Editor’s picks: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, fall/winter 2014

February 14, 2014

Another hectic week in New York is behind us. With several dozen designers showing their fall/winter 2014 collections at the Lincoln Centre tents, we picked the best shows for our readers.

Here are the Top 5.

Rebecca Minkoff

Minkoff’s ability to create modern, trendy and stylish accessories was strongly present in her latest runway show. Knee-high and mini-booties decorated with fur and small fringe detailing, multi-coloured scarves and neutral-toned toques were particularly eye-catchy.

Layering and colour-blocking were a popular choice for clothing and outerwear. See-through and patchwork-like fabric combinations added an extra touch of femininity. The only element that didn’t work too well was the shirt with the word “Snob” on it – the rest of this line was just too chic for it.

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Ruffian

We featured the duo Brian Wolk and Claude Morais on the cover of our North American issue last year. These designers enjoy experimenting with fashion and for fall/winter 2014, Ruffian’s collection was called Rapture.

There were definitive Catholic-themed elements, ranging from the music that played throughout the show (including Enigma) to the hats on the runway that were strongly reminiscent of those seen on church officials.

At the same time, these elements were infused with certain rockstar touches, such as tunes by Blondie, red tights and sexy stiletto heels. “For fall 2014, we explored monastic opulence, tailored volume and sober religious silhouettes – with lavish sumptuousness,” the designers said. Their deep interest in a variety of arts was also clearly superimposed in this presentation.

Silk was the most popular fabric of choice, as well as crepe, bouclé and jacquard. A truly cohesive, creative and very thought-through collection.

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Monique Lhuillier

A Red Carpet-favourite, Lhuillier’s company was established in 1996 by the designer and her husband, Tom Bugbee. The company is now considered one of the leading American fashion houses.

For fall/winter 2014, Lhuillier primarily focused on lace, ankle-length gowns and plenty of dark colours with floral accents. This was a very feminine presentation, with slits, backless designs, mesh pieces and strapless gowns.

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Carmen Marc Valvo

The show was dedicated to Taylor Foster – Valvo’s muse, who walked on his runway for the last time this season. The collection was influenced by the crossroads of Constantinople. Key trends included a combination of metal work, bodices, a melange of mosaics and bustiers.

The designer explored “the opulence of the Ottoman Empire,” which was executed through a contrast of armour-like pieces with layers of lace – superimposing femininity with power. Leather was paired with mink, chiffon with suede, and sable with wool.

Metallic accents took centrestage, with a strong legging motif. A definite festive tone permeated this 41-piece collection, with a strong accent on three-quarter and floor-hugging dresses, and a focus on the waist and the legs.

The final five pieces were particularly memorable. It was a very cohesive collection, with some very impressive gowns, although some pieces in the middle of the show were a little too similar.

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Custo Barcelona

This was one of the best Custo Barcelona collections to-date.

Designer Custo Dalmau is renowned for his continued interest to mix a variety of fabrics, colours and designs all into a single look. Although this may have not always worked in the past, Dalmau’s latest collection was truly excellent.

Bright, colourful and fun – this is the type of fashion that we should focus on for fall/winter, instead of drowning ourselves in dark and hardly noticeable colours. Women on the runway looked powerful, sexy and trendy. Kitten heels were paired with newsboy caps, and aviator shades with vibrant faux fur. Colour explosions were strongly present in all looks, although this was significantly toned down for the menswear pieces. All-in-all, a very successful presentation.

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By Hannah Yakobi
Photography by Tara West

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