In-depth report: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, fall/winter 2013, part I

February 8, 2013

By Katia Ostapets

Photography by Kareen Mallon

Videos courtesy of IMG Fashion

Our team is reporting live from the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York for the next seven days. Take a look at some of the highlights, as we provide in-depth coverage from some of our favourite shows.

This article will be continuously updated throughout the week, with new shows as they happen.


Carmen Marc Valvo

Lace and leather were combined perfectly in Carmen Marc Valvo’s collection.

Punk rock chicks with pink tipped hair came down the runway to an 80s hit, mixed with classical music. From the sparkly pencil skirts and classic cocktail dresses, to silk blouses finished with a bow at the neck, each piece was impeccable.

Jackets ranged from short with a peplum to cranberry fur, but always with a structured belt to define the waist. The gowns, however, stole the show. Long elegant frocks in black, white and shades or red could easily be pictured walking down the Red Carpet at the Oscars or the Met Gala.


Nautica

The most handsome and masculine men in the city of New York and from around the world were round up and hired to model the Nautica collection.

The gentlemen were dressed in a variety of colourful winter jackets, fashionable enough for walking down metropolitan streets and athletic enough for skiing or climbing icebergs in the Arctic. Accents like royal blue fur on the hood added a whimsical element to the collection.

The line was completed with preppy blazers and layers of oversized knits, paired with tight jegging style pants.


Ruffian

Dressed as modern equestrians with a touch of punk, the Ruffian girls wore black capes, corseted blouses and short skirts over pants.

Black, eggplant and burn orange prints dominated. Fitted dresses with a 1940s vibe were shown in a variety of fabrics. Evening wear options were mainly in black, but particularly attractive with sheer beaded shoulders.

Most pieces were finished with a wonderful over-exaggerated tassel detail on the zippers that were made to match jewelry.


Jill Stuart

Models dressed as preppy schoolgirls, in short A-line frocks made of lace and wool, opened the Jill Stuart show.

Embellished sheer black blouses, capes and baby doll coats followed. The showstoppers came next: Damask in golden yellow was embellished with brown velvet and Tudor dress silhouettes.

More modern versions of similar gowns came next in black and gold, every dress without fail drawing a gasp from the crowds. The collection concluded with flower petal appliquéd frocks in shades of red and aubergine.


Mara Hoffman

Mara Hoffman took us deep into the tropical rainforest and introduced us to the exotic and alluring Native American princess.

In bold prints, often accented with neon colours, many looks consisted of matching leggings and long silk tops, often with a vintage-style oversized sweater. Both short and maxi dresses with daring cut outs rounded out the collection and free-flowing floor-length silk dresses provided the “wow” factor.


Venexiana

The Venexiana show was a dazzling display of every gown imaginable in every colour a girl could ever want, 75 looks in all. They ranged from fitted velvet creations with a low V-shaped back, held up by a single strap covered in grey crystals, to flowing satin ball gowns.

Some had a vintage look in draped satin and crystal embellishments, while others were more modern with simpler lines and composed entirely of sequined fabric.


Lela Rose

All the elegance of the 1960s and glamour of Mad Men were present at the Lela Rose show.

Smart cocktail dresses in bold green, yellow and orange prints were accented with lace, and worn with trapeze jackets. Elegant party dresses made of flowing silks and delicate embellishments were also present.

Particularly memorable were a frock of white silk and black lace that accented the asymmetrical hem, and a white-and-hot-pink gown with ostrich feathers on the skirt, worn with a matching loose fuchsia evening jacket.

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Custo Barcelona

The Custo Barcelona show was a creative display of glamorous nomads. Shades of burgundy, teal, orange and earth tones dominated. Unexpected prints were put together and tribal details were everywhere.

Most garments were made of wool or fur, trimmed with leather and sequins. Men’s jackets were styled with capes.

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Vivienne Tam

The Vivienne Tam girl appeared to be reminiscent of A Girl With The Dragon Tattoo. The collection was bold in red, black, white and a touch of electric blue.

Garments ranged from tweed punk-chic skirts, to red and black leather gowns with Chinese symbols used as accents and communist-minimal jackets, embellished with political pop art.  The runway was lit up in red to complete the atmosphere.

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Reem Acra

The Reem Acra show was, as always, a pinnacle of elegance. Jackets made of long fur, pencil skirts and fitted cocktail dresses dominated the day looks.

For the special occasion, however, for which Reem is especially known for, she provided options in head-to-toe sequins and black or white silk with contrasting details.

Red was the collection’s accent colour and the piece de la resistance was a ball gown of black tulle and a sheer exposed front, exquisitely embellished with red beading.

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KAUFMANFRANCO

The KAUFMANFRANCO show with its clean lines and modern elegance was one of the favourite shows for celebrities.

The feel of the collection was that of a cool urban girl with a New York City attitude. Black and leather dominated with green accents. Soft furs were mixed with sequined tops and dresses for a touch of glamour, and leather for a punch of danger.

Plunging necklines showed just enough skin and oversized fringe on skirts gave them movement. Gowns were made sexy with unexpected cutouts.

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Mathieu Mirano

The Mathieu Mirano collection was displayed on mannequin-like models, who stood still in MBFW’s Box.

Black, gold and nude-fitted tops and knee-length dresses, fur jackets and skirts, as well as grey iridescent evening wear were the focus of this line.

Other dress options were geometric with either an asymmetric hem, with one side knee-length and the other to the floor, or fitted floor-length frocks of sheer material and small square appliqués covering the entire garment.


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